FOOTPATHS

The Pilgrims’ Way —
England’s Hidden Byway

By Derek Bright

Megaliths mark the entrance to a long barrow known as Kits Coty House.
Edward Austen’s mansion at Godmersham.
Thurnham’s motte and bailey Norman Castle.
Black Horse Inn on the Pilgrims’ Way Wayn.
North Downs Way National Trail Boxley Hill.

Hillaire Belloc’s The Old Road, published over a hundred years ago, captures the antiquity of the ancient track way that traces its way across southern England popularly known as the Pilgrims Way. In places the old track way takes the form of a ridge walk, where it keeps to the upper slopes of the North Downs chalk escarpment. On other sections along the route it takes the form of a terrace way where the path follows the lower, less exposed southern slopes just above the claggy clay of the vale of Holmesdale. As the Pilgrims Way threads its’ way almost unnoticed across the southern home counties, at times within only a few miles of London, it takes wayfarers through some of the most scenic rural landscape that England has to offer.

Walkers fortunate enough to find time to journey along the old road today cannot fail to be rewarded by an overwhelming sense of history associated with the track way. In spite of on-going debate about the number of pilgrims that may have used the old road on their way to Beckett’s shrine, there is however virtually unanimity amongst historians that the old road was a prehistoric track, originally a Neolithic way following the edge of the North Downs chalk escarpment and one of the earliest track ways across southern England.

Today, walkers in search of the pilgrims’ way follow the well marked course of the North Downs Way National Trail established in 1972. For the most part, the national trail is off road and much of its route follows the ancient chalk and flint track way under the welcome shade offered by a canopy of hedge-row and trees. Spectacular views over the weald, the old forest of Kent and Sussex, are gained from the heights of the ridge path and hardly a mile goes past without a castle, church, or iron-age earthwork serving as a reminder of the history found along the trail. In the evening walkers head for accommodation in the numerous old inns located in the spring line villages that nestle at the foot of the chalk escarpment, which beside from improvements in the comfort they offer travellers, have changed little since the 15th century.

Approximately two thirds of Belloc’s old road has been incorporated into the North Downs Way. Unlike the Pilgrim’s Way, the National Trail starts slightly further east of Winchester at the medieval market town of Farnham whereupon it follows the chalk ridge of the North Downs for 125 miles until the city walls of Canterbury are reached. A few miles before Canterbury, the National Trail divides and offers walkers the choice of following the chalk ridges of the downs until they meet the sea and form the White Cliffs at Dover, or alternatively one can ascend an old drovers trail into Kings Wood and stay on the Pilgrims Way until Canterbury.

For purists, there are sections along the route where walkers may choose to deviate from the National Trail and stay true to the route of the old road. After passing the Neolithic standing stones known as the Coldrum Stones, marking the site of ancient burial and early human settlement (3500 BC), travellers can follow the terrace-way marked Pilgrims’ Way as it hugs the hillside before leaving the downs to cross the Medway flood plain. Another mile and the 11th century church of St. Benedict’s at Paddlesworth Farm is reached. Like many of the churches to be found along the way, booklets outlining the history of the church are left out for visitors to take and leave a small donation. The St. Benedict’s booklet informs us that the church stands near the old Pilgrims’ Way and many medieval pilgrims on route to the shrine of St. Thomas a’ Beckett stopped to say their prayers here.

Belloc suggested three possible river crossing points for bygone travellers including the use of a ferry, ford, and bridge. Today’s pilgrims can still walk across the 14th century medieval bridge at Aylesford and visit the Carmelite Priory with its pilgrims guest house, established in 1240.

Ascent of the opposite side of the Medway Valley regains the high ground of the downs and rejoins the National Trail. The path passes another burial chamber, known as Kit Coty House. Three upright sarsen stones support a massive capstone that formed the entrance to this Neolithic long barrow. Kits Coty is the best example of the many Neolithic megaliths found in the Blue Bell Hill area. Moreover the meadow within which it stands is a fitting place for the weary traveller to lunch, rest aching legs whilst taking in the panoramic views of the previous day’s route stretching west along the North Downs ridge.

With three days walking before the final destination of Canterbury, overnight accommodation can be taken in the Black Horse Inn that nestles under the hill top ruins of Norman Castle. Leaving Thurnham, many walkers decide to make the three mile detour south to visit Leeds Castle, said to be England’s most beautiful moated castle and once home to six medieval Queens of England and a palace for Henry VIII. A further day by ancient track way passes the medieval villages of Lenham and then Charing, which boasts the ruins of one of a number archiepiscopal palaces situated close to the Pilgrims Way.

On the final day the trail turns due north and skirts the west bank of the River Stour. This part of the journey takes the walker through classic garden of England country with apple orchards, hop-gardens, and oast houses for drying hops. Leaving the trail in Kings Wood walkers catch their first glimpse of the spire of Canterbury Cathedral, a view that has remained unchanged for the last 650 years. The route then continues its descent into the grounds of Godmersham, once owned by Jane Austen’s brother Edward and inspirational for novels including Mansfield Park and Pride and Prejudice.

No pilgrimage to Canterbury would be complete without reference to Geoffrey Chaucer, author of the Canterbury Tales. At Harbledown the Pilgrims Way weaves its way through the hillside village referred to as Bobbe-up-and-down in the Manciples tale. While at Harbledown walkers can seek out the Black Princes Well and imagine Henry II having travelled along the Pilgrims Way from Winchester, commencing his barefoot walk in 1174 towards Canterbury Cathedral as penance for his role in the death of Thomas Beckett.

The walking is good in southern England all year round. Temperatures can be as high as 30‚° C between the months of June and September. In the winter months between late November and March the temperature in the day can drop to freezing. Rainfall in England is unpredictable and can change on a daily basis. In the summer months the going can be firm underfoot, whereas in the winter months, particularly the trail crosses fields or follows muddy tracks, can be wet and claggy underfoot. Specialist clothing is not an essential requirement for walking in southern England but walkers should carry a fleece, light waterproof clothing in a day sack and in the winter months a warm anorak. Given that the terrain is varied and sometimes rutted or slippery underfoot as the trail is used by horses and in places off-road vehicles, a pair of walking boots is advisable to guard against twisted ankles.

Derek Bright was a researcher in the field of industrial relations for many years and lives with his family in Kent. In 2001, he established Walk Awhile. Visit www.walkawhile.co.uk for more information, a small rural based tour operator in the North Downs Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) offering self-led and guided walking holidays with luggage transfer along the Pilgrims Way. In 2005, Walk Awhile was awarded Silver Accreditation by the Green Tourism Business Scheme (GTBS) and is also member of Responsible Travel and Tourism Southeast.